A narrow Amsterdam street at night, wet cobbles reflecting the lamps
Red-lit shop windows on a corner at night, a cyclist passing in a blur
A busy Amsterdam crossing at night in black and white, cyclists under the street lights
A panelled museum room hung with old master portraits, a single chair before them

INTRODUCTION

Every concierge has a list, and most of those lists are the same: the museums, the canal tour, the restaurant with the long waiting list. Ours has those too, and we are happy to book them. This is the other list.

These are the places the people who work in the house go on their own evenings off — none more than a quarter of an hour’s walk from the door, most of them without a website, and all of them better visited than read about. There are seven. The last one is the easiest to find.

CHAPTER ONE

After rain

One: the brown café two canals over, where the floor has been worn smooth by three hundred years of shoes and no one will ask you to leave. Go after rain, when the windows fog. Two: the cheese shop on the corner of the Jordaan that has sold the same four goudas for as long as anyone remembers. Ask for the oldest, and eat it standing up.

CHAPTER TWO

Walking at night

Three: the small bridge at the end of our own canal, at midnight, when its arches light up in the water. Four: the oyster bar near the flower market — standing room only, open until the oysters run out. Five: the bookshop behind the Westerkerk, with a chair in the window that is nearly always free.

CHAPTER THREE

The ones we arrange

Six: an hour in a canal-house museum before the doors open, with the old masters and no one else. Seven is ours. After a day of the city, come back to the salon, where the fire is lit and a drink is already poured. The concierge will book any of the others for you. This one needs no reservation.

Amsterdam

2 min read

Seven addresses we send guests to

Not a list of sights. The places we would go ourselves, a short walk from the door.

An Amsterdam canal in falling snow, the boats covered white and a lit tree on the bank

NEXT IN THE JOURNAL

Winter on the Keizersgracht

The canal goes quiet in January, and the house is at its best.

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